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Subtle swerves are welcome, as long as you dont stray too far from the semi-formal foundations

"In actuality, there were plenty of black dresses before that date, including many by Chanel herself, and black was already a fashionable colour but there's something about this moment and the way it embodies the modernising spirit of the 1920s." That moment is how the new show begins the largest fashion exhibition the National Museum of Scotland has ever staged - a simple crepe de chine dress made by Chanel in 1926, borrowed from the Kunstgewerbemuseum in Berlin

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* Classic round collar design